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Meet the person who dressed a pregnant Beyonce: Unique HT Brunch interview – brunch characteristic

Monitoring down dressmaker Peter Dundas is simple: you possibly can observe him on Instagram for a ringside view to his wanderlust, which might take you from Paris to Rome, his studios in London and the seashores of Miami in just some days.  

However to truly pin him down is troublesome. On the time of this Zoom name, he’s in Greece residing an island life in lockdown, although he’s hoping to return to his London studio quickly.  

The 51-year-old designer has been on the artistic helm of Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli. Three years in the past he arrange his personal self-funded label, Dundas World, together with his associate in enterprise and life, Evangelo Bousis, who he describes because the one with the enterprise and technique savvy.

“With out him, I couldn’t have began the label,” says Dundas. His garments discuss of a way of life; they’ve a really feel of high-octane bohemian glamour served with a beneficiant facet serving to of rock stylish. This has been his signature all through his profession.

A pregnant Beyoncé was the label’s first muse, sporting Dundas World to the Grammys in 2017, a beaded, artwork deco-inspired gold robe. Her gown was hand embroidered with cherubs, her lyrics and even her personal picture: it was a murals.

(From left to proper) A pregnant Beyoncé in a Dundas World creation on the Grammys, 2017; Peter Dundas together with his associate Evangelo Bousis; Dundas, 4, getting a hair-cut

Dundas’s debut assortment was offered on the posh e-commerce platform, Moda Operandi, taking a “seasonless” method to trend from the beginning. The label was not a part of the standard trend week system, and the model additionally didn’t spend money on bricks-and-mortar shops however had travelling flagships, which popped up in vacation spots reminiscent of Mykonos and in addition in international trend cities reminiscent of New York and Los Angeles, marrying the net world with the offline.

The language Dundas spoke appeared international to trend then, however now it’s the vocabulary that each model appears to be utilizing. “Once I launched Dundas World, we had been beginning with a clean web page. We appeared on the market and felt this made sense,” says the designer.

The ladies of Dundas world

Like each trend label, Dundas World has made some pivots throughout these unprecedented occasions. Dundas’s model is thought for its big day put on, however lately launched Dundas Lively and shortly will add a loungewear and an eyewear assortment.

“What this pandemic has finished is pace up the method of what’s taking place in trend. There was a necessity to handle the fact of how folks stay right this moment,” says the designer. His recommendation to different impartial designers at this second is to be “shopper centric”. 

“India appears so vibrant, refreshing, and totally different to the Nordic lifestyle, which is reserved” -Peter Dundas

Dundas has an actual understanding of who his girls are and has dressed a number of the world’s most glamorous girls, together with Michelle Obama, Zendaya and Kim Kardashian West. Priyanka Chopra, Isha Ambani, Deepika Padukone and Natasha Poonawalla are all additionally #DundasGirls. One in every of Deepika’s most memorable crimson carpet appearances was in a custom-made voluminous robe with an outsized black bow, plunging neckline and sweeping practice, worn on the Cannes Movie Pageant final 12 months. 

Dundas has met Deepika and her husband Ranveer Singh, and says they’re probably the most fun-loving {couples} he has ever met. Since he believes his label is for the “love of life”, it’s not shocking that so most of the girls he attire stay the jet set life. That features Natasha Poonawalla, whom he has identified since his days at Pucci.

For these in trend, there isn’t any greater evening out than The Metropolitan Museum of Artwork’s Costume Institute’s opening evening ball, popularly referred to as the Met Gala. It takes place in New York on the primary Monday in Might. Final 12 months, Natasha attended the gala in an embellished silver mini gown worn with a removable voluminous ice blue skirt – she appeared like a really modern-day princess (see Cowl Story).  

“Natasha is fabulous to work with and made an actual entrance within the gown, but it was sensible and simple to maneuver in,” remembers the designer. He describes her as “an important unofficial ambassador for India”.

A love affair with India

It comes as no shock that Dundas enjoys dressing Indian girls: his love of India is clear in his collections. He first got here to India earlier than he joined Christian Lacroix as head designer in 2000 and travelled throughout the nation from Varanasi to the backwaters of Kerala.

Deepika Padukone in a Dundas gown at the Cannes Film Festival last year 

Deepika Padukone in a Dundas robe on the Cannes Movie Pageant final 12 months 

“I like the colors of India, the traditions, the meals and the folks. It appears so vibrant, refreshing, and totally different to the Nordic lifestyle, which is reserved,” says Dundas. Lots of his creations use craft strategies from the nation. “In relation to Indian crafts, I’ve gluttony, I take pleasure in all of it,” he says. It took 50 Indian embroiderers (karigars) to assist create Beyonce’s Grammy gown and Dundas made positive to credit score them in all his interviews. Not many European trend homes speak about India – the function of this nation’s crafts in worldwide trend is underplayed for a lot of causes. Dundas says, “European trend would look very totally different with out the gorgeous craftmanship they get from India.”

He’s in fixed contact with the embroidery homes he works with in Mumbai and has teamed up with quaran-T, an initiative arrange by Swedish model incubator Bozzil and famend Mumbai embroidery home Saks India to launch a charitable T-shirt label that may characteristic the paintings of designers, celebrities and trend college students in assist of the karigars. His is the primary T-shirt, and the designer says, “Within the spirit of transparency and honesty, the entrusted karigars that quaran-T has partnered with for it will signal an official doc declaring the quantity of people that will profit from the funds in addition to what goal the funds shall be used for, relying on the person wants of every manufacturing facility.”

The voiceof trend

Throughout this time of lockdown, trend has come out as an trade that’s keen to lend its voice to assist many causes from migrant employees to #BlackLivesMatter. It has additionally come beneath the highlight itself for not being inclusive sufficient. “We actually are all in the identical boat,” says Dundas. “All of us must attempt to be extra inclusive. Vogue is a social reflection and we have now the chance to be frontrunners.”

After all, this has been a tough time for all manufacturers in trend. “Giant manufacturers have the challenges of huge retail networks being in hassle and younger corporations have money movement points,” says the designer.

Dundas remembers that he joined Pucci in 2008, throughout the recession. “If occasions are miserable don’t make miserable garments,” advises Dundas. He believes trend ought to all the time be a few feel-good issue, whereas additionally being conscious of the circumstances of the world. Which signifies that whereas his label might now be taking a look at loungewear, you may count on it to have that signature Dundas ‘Glamazon’ vibe.

From HT Brunch, August 9, 2020

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